Making Pad Thai in Ning's kitchen. If you would like to learn more go to www.my-thaiwife.com
Tags: pad, thai, food, thailand, making, noodle, make, seeker, 54
I moved half way around the world to Northern Thailand in order to eat better. You might say that I'm more than a diminutive curious in food.
I remember the food writer and Tv celebrity chef Jamie Oliver saying that he dreams about herbs. Surprisingly it is the only sensible and general sounding thing I have ever heard him say. It's not unusual for me to spend days or weeks mental about single recipes or foods, although I haven't yet dreamed about herbs...I'm sure though it's only a matter of time.
The foods available in Northern Thailand must rank surrounded by the most intelligent and extraordinary in the world. There are influences from throughout Asia together with China and India and the fragrant dishes of Malaysia, Indonesia, Lao, Vietnam and Southern Thailand (the old Siam). It's a giddy mixture and a life's work to get to know and understand them all...but I'm prepared to give it a go. It's a life changing contact in itself.
Part of the extraordinary food contact in Northern Thailand is the strong market culture. There are perfect fresh markets throughout this whole region that sell the freshest and best food in any place on the planet. Huge piles of mangoes, cabbages, chilies, coriander, strawberries, jack fruit, limes, lemon grass and every other fruit or vegetable you can think of fill the buzzing markets.
The part of the market that I frequent the most is the rice section. Back in the Uk rice is just something you buy and cook and don't think a great deal about. Here in Chiang Mai, the main city in Northern Thailand, rice is almost a revered commodity. There are endless types of rice available for sale whether piled high in big sacks, or already cooked in big steaming vats. My popular and probably the most popular in this part of Chiang Mai is locally grown sticky rice. I had sticky rice once in London in a Thai bistro and speedily wished I hadn't. It was a bit like eating glue. The sticky rice here is wholly different; it's warm and soft...more like fluffy mashed potatoes than rice. It's the kind of food that will all the time be eaten because, like mashed potatoes, it is so damn good.
So, once you have your warm sticky rice what next? There are different ways you can go from here. whether you could try some Thai soups or curries and dip the rice right into it, or you could spend in a tiny pot of spicy dry chili sauce called "Nam Prik Ta Dem" which is popular all over Thailand. Some population do eat the rice and the dry sauce as a meal in itself...it's the cheapest unblemished meal available at most markets. If however, you have a few baht left over (which I'm sure you might) you could think about getting something from the grilled section. Thai sausages are excellent, but vary enormously in spiciness. There are also grilled fish which range from the perfect and locally farmed Catfish to the costly Snake Head Fish with soft flaky flesh or perhaps you may prefer some chicken, or honey marinated pork satay, or deep fried vegetable tempura or land crab pate or any one of the most delicious and unusual foods in the world.
Today, when it's market time I'm heading for the fresh seafood section, and buy myself a big bag full of Tiger Prawns and perhaps some Soft Shell Crabs. I'll then trundle round to the fresh herb section and pick out some big bunches of Coriander, Lemon Grass, Basil and Spring Onions. I can't wait to get cooking with all these fresh flavors. I'm sure that if Jamie Oliver shopped down at my local market he'd find it difficult to work out the discrepancy between when he was dreaming about herbs and wide awake!
Enjoy Northern Thai food.
A few days ago, I made my first visa run to Laos, by bus.
Normally I go to Singapore to get a 60-day tourist visa, but the last time I went, they refused to give me a 60-day visa because I have an open e-ticket back to Canada. They now want a confirmed ticket, and will not accept an open ticket. This is stupid, if you ask me. I told the lady at the front desk that if the violence in Bangkok gets bad, I can phone Air Canada and be on my way next day, so an open ticket is much great than a ticket for a singular date. No dice. So I had to fly back to Bangkok and got the usual 30-day entry at the airport. The whole trip cost me 18,000 baht, counting hotels, flights, meals, taxis, etc. What a waste.
I did a join of visa runs by bus to Cambodia, and find that a pain in the bum, since you only get 14 days and then have to do it again, and it costs 2000 baht each time.
So this time, I signed up for the bus to Vientiane.
I must say that the assistance by the visa run business was excellent; the bus (a 40-seater) was full, and it was the same comfortable bus they use for the Cambodia runs, with the same driver. The driver is relatively conservative, seems to be mindful of the fact he's got 40 farangs on board, and is as careful a driver as you would want.
The bus left Pb Tower on Sukhumvit Soi 71 exactly at 8:30Pm.
There was a pee break about an hour later at a assistance centre, and then an additional one 2 hours later, and so on, throughout the night. These gave the driver a chance to relax a bit, which I notion was a good idea.
Unfortunately, I have never been able to sleep on a bus or airplane, and this trip was no exception. While my seat mate happily snored away the night, I sat there bleary eyed, shifting in my seat periodically as my bum got sore. I appreciated the rest breaks as well.
A Dvd movie was played at the start of the trip, but after it finished, it was after 11Pm, so no more movies were shown.
We arrived at the border early, before 6:30. I watched the sun come up. We had to sit nearby for a while until the border office opened, and then one of the bus business ladies got all our passports processed. She had previously collected them on the bus.
After being stamped out of Thailand, we took 3 mini-buses (vans) across the bridge (Mekong River) into Laos, where again we waited while the lady got our passports processed by Lao immigration. In less than an hour, we took the mini-buses into Vientiane, and arrived at the road for the Thai Embassy about 7:30 or 7:40 Am. There were already at least 200 citizen lined up along the sidewalk, and it was hot.
The embassy gates opened about 8:15 Am, and we all filed into the embassy compound. There was a ticket engine at the front, and we joined the queue.
However, our erstwhile visa run lady ushered us up the stairs into an air-conditioned area and handed out low-numbered tickets from the machine. Our numbers started nearby 95, whereas the citizen at the ticket engine were getting tickets numbered over 350. So I conjecture she had some experience in Vientiane who stood at the starting of the line at the gates at an early hour, and then passed the tickets to her when she arrived an hour or more later.
The ticket numbers were called out over the public address theory in both Thai and English, and repeated once: "Ticket number 37, please proceed to counter number 2".
I soon noticed that there was no pause in the number callout, the announcements came non-stop, and soon reached the 80s. We all rushed downstairs to the counters and were there when our numbers came up. But the numbers just kept on rolling by. Our lady collected our passports and tickets, and lined them all up along the counter, and then told us to go wait in the other building.
Over there, we found there were four more counters, numbered 3 through 6, but only one, counter 4, was active, and there were at least 100 citizen waiting, sitting on chairs. This waiting room was also air conditioned.
Again, the numbers were called out, but this time there were big gaps between, and there was a big pause after each number was called. When a number was called, a someone went up to counter 4, received a paper receipt, and then exited stage left.
After every batch of 10 or 12 numbers, there was a 5 or 6 small delay. That was when I noticed that the Thai lady behind the counter was printing out and then separating the receipts. Clearly, the passports and applications were being processed in the other building, entered into a computer, and then the receipt was printed in this building at counter 4.
After about 30 or 40 minutes, my number was called; I went up to the counter, got my receipt and exited. The guy next to me had a lower number, but his number was not called, so he got a small upset and went up to the counter, where the lady told him to wait.
I went out the exit, and there was my visa run lady collecting the receipts, and then ushering us over to one of the vans. My receipt had shown "60 days duplicate entry tourist visa" and "fee: ", so I was happy.
The van took us to a local bistro where we had a Thai/Lao food breakfast or brunch of fried rice and whatever. This was free, paid for by the visa run company, but soft drinks were 20 baht extra.
In Laos, you can use Lao kip, Thai baht, and Us dollars interchangeably. If you pay in Thai baht, you get change in Thai baht. If you pay in Us dollars, you get change in Lao kip, which, like Cambodian currency, has very high denominations and no value. A Pepsi was 20 baht, which was reasonable, but no diet drinks were available. By the way, Atm machines in Laos only dispense Lao kip.
After brunch, we were taken by van to the hotel, which turned out to be quite acceptable, maybe 2.5 stars. There was no pool, just a room, but it was a big room, inexpressive bathroom, and cable or satellite Tv with many Thai, a few Lao, and some movie channels, along with Hbo and Star Movies.
The bathroom was typical Thai-style, with no shower stall or bath, and a shower head on the wall. There was a flash water heater which worked, and the toilet worked. The towels were large, red, fluffy, and obviously new.
I had paid an extra 200 baht at the front desk for a inexpressive room. The visa run fee of 5000 baht includes a shared room (2 per room). The fee will growth to 6000 baht after the free tourist visa promotion ends June 5.
In bed by 1Pm in the afternoon, I slept for several hours, got up, showered, watched a movie, then went out in quest of dinner. I walked up and down the main road near the hotel, but there was nothing appealing. However, the office involved 20 meters from the hotel had a restaurant, so I went in there and found 5 other farangs from the visa run also there. The food was good, the prices were not expensive, and I was able to pay with Thai baht. The young lady behind the bar was probably the most gorgeous girl I have ever laid eyes on, and I have been to Thailand off and on for 20 years. She made me wish I was 25 again.
Next day, I had breakfast at the same restaurant, and then nearby 1Pm, we piled into the vans again and were taken to the border. There are a lot of "duty free" shops at the border. We waited about 45 minutes or so, and then the visa run lady showed up, and we all went through Immigration with the Lao border citizen just looking at us, not asking to see our passports, which the visa run lady had.
Back across the bridge to Thailand, where we waited an additional one 45 minutes or so, then it was back on the bus for the return trip. Within an hour, we stopped at a restaurant, where we had an additional one Thai meal, again free, soft drinks extra, 20 baht.
The return trip seemed much faster, as several Dvd movies were played, which occupies the time and the mind.
We arrived back in Bangkok at 1:30 Am. You can get dropped off everywhere along the route; some exited at Ramkhamhaeng. I waited until the end, which is just beside Ekamai Bts station, where I quickly discovered that the Bts was closed. An 80 baht taxi ride later, I was home again.
Would I do it again? Definitely, yes. The whole process was pretty much automatic. The business took care of everything. You do have to book a seat in advance, though. One farang apparently called to find out the price and time, showed up and was angry that there was no seat for him. But he had not made a reservation, had not left his name or phone number, so was out of luck. Of course, he had left it until the last day of his visa, so he would have to leave the next day somehow and pay the 500 baht overstay fee.
To summarize: you leave at 8:30Pm, spend a night on the bus. Then it's half a day waiting around, with brunch included. Check into the hotel, sleep a bit or, if you have the stamina, observe Vientiane. Not much there, though. Have dinner, sleep one night at the hotel. Next day, wait nearby for a morning or visit Vientiane, then bus it back to Bangkok, arriving about 1:30 Am.
If you want to do this yourself, the business I used was "Quick Thai Visa Run", 6th floor, Pb Tower, Sukhumvit Soi 71. The experience is Phillip, who speaks excellent English, at 02-713-2498 (office hours) or 09-0245-255 (24 hours). They have a web site at ThaiVisaRun.com, but it hasn't been updated in a while, and only mentions their Cambodia run, not the Laos run.
London is a gorgeous city with a collection of compelling attractions. For the holidaymaker, exploration makes trip enjoyable. However, there is a degree of danger to be thought about when planning the daily itinerary. Most major cities have definite neighbourhoods that suffer with high crime rates. London is no irregularity to this rule. As a result, safety threats might be found during an evening trip to the wrong borough on social transport. When evaluating current crime statistics, definite areas of London should be thought about no-go zones.
High Crime Rates Indicate No-Go Zones
Some of London's highest crime rates are found in the Borough of Westminster. However, Covent organery and Leicester square are thought about safe despite their location in this rowdy neighbourhood. For those that intend to traverse Westminster, greatest caution should be taken. Agreeing to a narrative by the Metropolitan Police, Westminster experienced 63,655 reported crimes in 2009.
Many reconsider the Borough of Southwark to be among the more perilous places in London. The Metropolitan Police reported 30,755 crimes in this neighbourhood in 2009. While renovation efforts might make Southwark safer in the distant future, it contains rough patches that should be thought about no-go zones. For example, Peckham is known to be a particularly troubling area of Southwark.
Crime Rates Are Not the Only Indicator
There are perilous neighbourhoods that don't originate such threatening statistics on government reports. Brixton has a reputation for its local gang culture. Road toughs battle over black store disputes in this location. Poverty and political strife affect the Borough of Hackney. While these areas might not gift frightening demographic data points, locals know the perils created by warring gangs. When planning a holiday schedule, avoid these risky locations.
Smart Planning Yields a Safe Holiday
London is a safe and captivating city to visit on holiday. However, every urban area contains perilous neighbourhoods. For safety purposes, choose London hotels in upmarket areas. Practice caution when using social transport. Favor attractions in tranquil parts of London when building an itinerary. While dangers lurk in dark corners of every city, a microscopic study will help holidaymakers avoid the most troubled boroughs.
When shopping between the luxurious hotels London offers, reconsider the safety of surrounding neighbourhoods. The path to rail stations might involve a walk through the city. While an evening walk through gorgeous London is an incredible experience, definite no-go zones should be excluded from such plans.